On a clear and breezy 70 degree day, 25 of us set out on a journey through the surprisingly extensive Long Island wine country (which I had no idea existed until this week).
In a few hours I found myself on the deck of a vineyard lodge, overlooking a vast sea of grapes, clear blue horizon stretching info infinity, the wind chasing itself through the rows of green as a jazz combo enthusiastically churned out music that wafted across the landscape. Our group sipped mostly chardonnays, merlots, cabernet francs, and rieslings from tasting menus that kept everyone involved in pleasant buzzing conversation.
The tour:
Wine-making, like so many other things, ends up being a metaphor for life in general. As much art as science, requiring attention to detail as well as a macro vision, with a never-failing element of chance that can single-handedly make or break your vintage. An ill-timed rain, an amazing summer, things the presentation and marketing of your product can't capture or combat. Subject to the constraints and geography of your region, but empowered by your creativity and vision, you are in constant pursuit of the ultimate reward, the creation of bottled perfection.
The math:
A capital intensive business for sure, planting costs at least $20K an acre (one acre produces 200 - 400 cases of wine) and that doesn't include the cost of obtaining the land in the first place and anti-pest/bird control. Most of the aging barrels come from France and shipping them over isn't cheap, the other big expense is the stainless steel equipment needed to process the grapes and keep everything fermenting as planned. This, among all other hobbies of the wealthy, is an interesting one.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
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